NOTHING BRINGS San Joseans out of the woodwork more than a $5 steak, especially when it’s at Henry’s Hi-Life, that illustrious local joint currently celebrating its golden anniversary.
On two consecutive evenings last week, carnivores lined up down the block to get in at 3pm. Henry’s first opened in 1960, so the owners decided to throw a bash to end all bashes by offering ’60s prices for just two evenings. A New York steak tipped the scales at $5.75. The top sirloin went for a whopping $4.95.
On Tuesday, Aug. 10, Henry’s opened at 3pm for the evening shift and people began lining up at 1:59pm. I arrived an hour later, and there was already a line stretching down the entire block. At least 50 people, numbers in hand, were waiting in sheer anticipation for their chance to devour a classic Henry’s slab of meat for five bucks. Two security guards manned the door—an unusual sight for Henry’s.
“They’re here to help,” explained retired owner Lois Reynolds, while beckoning me to a corner table in the side area away from the scarfing masses. Current owner Jason Alarid then showed up and both of them proceeded to regale me with stories of Guadalupe River floods, NHL lockouts, construction, bridge closings and how Henry’s has persevered through all the ups and downs. During the great flood of 1995, loyal patrons came over and aided with the sandbags.
“The customers came to help,” said Lois. “They said, ‘I’ll be here every day for two hours.’ Not only the employees, but customers.”
Which explains why Henry’s has endured for 50 years in a city where most restaurants come and go, and tenants seem to change with the wind. Lois says keeping things the same and simple is the key to maintaining a constant and returning clientele.
“You just work really hard, keep things always the same and don’t change the food,” she explained as we both wolfed down our steaks. “When you go somewhere, and you love the food—when you go back, that’s what you remember. That’s what you go back for.”
In the old days, meaning the ’60s, Henry’s attracted mostly men who plumped down at the bar to eat steak sandwiches, drink beer and smoke cigarettes—back when that was the norm at a bar. Lois says she was only a kid, but she remembers those days.
“People really did the three-martini lunches back then,” she recalled. “That was appropriate.”
Lois’ dad, Henry Puckett, was a World War II veteran. He opened the original Henry’s on North First Street in downtown San Jose a few years after returning from the war. When the old Torino Hotel building became available in 1960, he restored the entire place and the now-legendary corner joint was born. Henry passed away in 1986, but the story lives on.
In fact, Henry’s will always be one of the San Jose institutions. New customers often show up because their parents used to eat at the place. Some of the employees have been at Henry’s for years. Alarid essentially grew up in the place and learned everything he ever knew about business and work ethic at Henry’s Hi-Life. James Dillsaver has tended bar for 25 years.
As the restaurant raged into the evening, more and more carnivores began to arrive and line up outside, including many folks who’d never previously set foot in the place. Between 3 and 5:30pm, Henry’s served 225 parties—much more than it usually does on a busy weekend night for a Sharks game.
Even more people showed up the next night, including Isabel Swain, 76, who’d actually patronized the original Henry’s in the ’50s. She said in those days everyone dressed up to go out to dinner, with gloves and high heels being the norm. She loves old quaint buildings like Henry’s Hi-life.
“I don’t like all these new skyscrapers,” she declared. “They look like boxes. That’s not beautiful.”
