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Small-Town Charm

Photo by Christopher Gardner

All in the Family: Zahir's Café mixes upscale amenities with down-home comfort and an authentic family atmosphere.

Zahir's Café offers variety amid homey elegance

By Gordon Young

Zahir's Café reminds me of fancy restaurants in small Midwest towns where the waiter spreads a white linen napkin for you and recommends tater skins as an appetizer. The food may not always be memorable, but the service, generous portions and innovative celery garnishes make up for it. Having lived in Michigan, gone to school in Missouri and visited relatives in Iowa on numerous occasions, I have a soft spot for eateries such as these that keep the memory of steak Diane alive.

Located in a Milpitas shopping center, Zahir's mixes coffee-shop comfort with upscale amenities like an extensive wine list and a menu so vast it comes in notebook form. There are eight appetizers, 10 salads, 12 poultry dishes, 10 seafood entrees, seven meat selections and seven veal offerings. Don't forget the pasta, combo platters and vegetarian dishes. The menu ranges from a simple lemon garlic chicken dish to a stuffed veal entree that boasts Cajun sausage, prosciutto and mushrooms with a brandy and red wine demi-glacé. There's even a pairing of veal and lobster.

Owner Zahir Quddus hails from Kabul, Afghanistan, and worked in quality control at a New Jersey Cadillac plant before setting up shop. Looking dapper in a gray, double-breasted suit, Zahir makes a point of chatting with his customers and making them feel welcome. He's not shy about telling a story or two, but he was discreet and never distracted us from our meal. It's hard not to like him, even after he suggested that my dinner companion chew her food a bit longer to bring out the flavor. Hey, he was looking out for us.

Throughout the meal, the service was brisk and efficient. The cooks in the open kitchen took the time to say hello. The family atmosphere is authentic--Zahir's relatives round out the staff as servers, and even his baby granddaughter made a late-night appearance after the place was officially closed. At Zahir's, the pretension that often permeates expensive restaurants is replaced by down-home sincerity amid tasteful lighting and not-quite-so-tasteful mauve drapes.

The massive menu made wine selection a bit daunting. My friend opted for a supple 1993 Columbia Crest merlot with a hint of black cherries. There were plenty of other choices on the extensive wine list. I stuck with a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale from the well-rounded beer selection that even featured Red Barrel Cream Stout--a fine libation on the sweeter side of Guinness.

Unable to decide on appetizers, we went for the combination platter. Unfortunately, the stuffed mushrooms were downright cold, and the Monterey Jack topping totally eclipsed the shrimp, crab meat and herb stuffing. The spicy prawns were a bit warmer, but the flavor was one-dimensional. Like every Cajun-style seafood item I've sampled outside of the South, the flavor of the prawn was overpowered by a shotgun blast of plain ol' pepper. The potato skins were the best, but it's the sort of pub grub you expect to try after finishing off the nachos during a Raiders telecast, not something that would share space on a platter with mushroom duxelles. Don't get me wrong; the varied approach is a plus in my book, but the more complex items should measure up in quality to the simpler fare.

There was no question my friend would order the steak Zahir, the namesake of our fine host. The filet medallions were coated with black peppercorns and sautéed with mushrooms, brandy and sherry. Some might call it heavy, but I prefer to label it hearty. Nothing exotic, just well-cooked and generously seasoned. The dinner salad made with iceberg lettuce, however, could have used a bit more imagination.

The pecan chicken followed the same pattern. It consisted of a large--make that very large--deep-fried chicken breast smothered in pecans and a brandied honey sauce. It was simple, tender and filling.

The vegetable side dish of zucchini, cauliflower and carrots that came with each entree had been marinated in a pungent, vinegary concoction that would clear even Peter McNeeley's head. Although less ambitious, simple steamed vegetables would have been a better choice.

Excluding wine, beer and tip, the bill barely topped $50. The meal was fair for the price, despite the unevenness. The conversation with Zahir and the relaxed yet elegant atmosphere didn't show up on the bill, but both were perhaps more memorable than the food.

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Zahir's Café:

Address: 1350 S. Park Victoria Drive, Milpitas
Phone: 408/946-4000
Cuisine: You name it
Ambiance: Laid-back elegance
Entrees: $12.95-$22.95
Hours: Lunch Mon.-Fri., 11am-2pm; dinner Tue.-Thu., 5-9pm; Fri.-Sun., 5-10pm
Extras: Full bar, banquet facilities



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