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Feed Me, Señor

Photo by Christopher Gardner

Bird Meets Grill: Muchos rotisserie turns out mesquite munchables.

Muchos does chicken right

By Todd S. Inoue

Eating burritos at lunchtime is a workplace no-no. Side effects range from aromatic "one-cheek sneaks" to the inevitable burrito coma--the sloth that makes post-lunch work impossible. Employee handbooks should be amended to include an anti-burrito clause.

Muchos, downtown San Jose's Mexi-food high rollers, makes ozone depletion and loss of productivity worthwhile. When the restaurant is jammed, as many as 15 chickens roll over a magnificent rotisserie. The spice rub gives the pollo a distinct swagger and the mesquite grilling makes it pliant and juicy.

Some burriterias brag that bigger is better by fattening its tortillas with rice and beans. Muchos don't play that. A standard roasted chicken burrito ($3.50) with chicken, cheese and salsa is plenty filling. El Gigante ($4.75) attains the size of a New York sewer rat--stuffed with equal parts rice, beans, cheese, salsa and chicken. After El Gigante, call in sick because it's nap time.

I also gave the roasted chicken dinner a whirl. With generous sides of rice, beans, salsa and two tortillas, Muchos' smoky, butter-soft chicken meat blows doors on El Pollo Dorko. A quarter-chicken platter ($4.75) satiates hungry workers without sending them to the sandman.

San Jose is blessed with numerous burriterias, and one only need travel outside of the Burrito Belt--Arizona eastward--to appreciate the artistry of Muchos. The first San Josean who goes up in space won't emerge from the Shuttle Discovery craving a pizza--it'll be for an "El Gigante" and a side of guac.

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Muchos is located at 72 E. Santa Clara St., San Jose. 408/277-0333. Open daily, 11am-10pm.


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