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Just Out of the Oven

Photo by Christopher Gardner

Setting the Stage: Sous chef Russell Johnigan preps the kitchen for the lunch rush at Il Fornaio.

Il Fornaio's consistent devotion to Italian cuisine still flourishes in its smart downtown San Jose location in the Sainte Claire

By Christina Waters

Since occupying its sleek berth in the vintage Sainte Claire Hotel, downtown San Jose's Il Fornaio has warmed up its welcome. Countering the austere hardwood floors and high ceilings of the 1920s landmark, playful olive green stripes have appeared on clerestory columns--echoed by handsome striped upholstery. Central islands not only break up the long space that travels between murals, exhibition kitchen and intimate bar, but these islands now overflow with pottery, baskets, copper and oversized flocks of garlic, peppers and similar domestic bric-a-brac. The effect goes a long way toward softening the metropolitan-grill ambiance of the handsome space.

Having dined at roughly half of the dozen or so Il Fornaios strategically placed all over California, I continue to marvel at how the wood-fired ovens and aromatic baked specialties uphold the unmistakable company signature, yet each Il Fornaio maintains its unique identity. And after several recent visits, I again happily admit that this is one of the most attractive dining rooms in the Bay Area.

But enough about atmosphere, let's talk garlic and rosemary--two critical elements in the Il Fornaio arsenal. Given the fame of the restaurant's panetteria (after all, its name means "The Baker"), we always look forward to the breads. A crusty rosemary-laced roll made a delicious mess as we dipped it into a pool of fruity house olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and just as wonderful was a chewy-textured francese. Even the poppy seed breadsticks are distinctive, and my companions and I were, as usual, in danger of filling up before our meals. I've always enjoyed the house's latest Chianti-by-the-glass offering, but especially enjoyed the way a bottle of 1993 Quivira Sonoma zinfandel ($25) stood up to the lusty seasonings.

On recent visits we liked the very crisp (okay, way too crisp) bruschettas topped with mushrooms and cheese, and with tomatoes and plenty of garlicky olive oil ($4.95). But a house mixed salad of baby lettuces, though pretty and huge, was slathered with a dressing so acrid and salty that we only managed a bite or two ($5.25). Another appetizer of melanzana ($6.50) was appealing, with its fan of grilled Japanese eggplant anchored by a bouquet of balsamic sautéed sun-dried tomatoes and a tiny turban of tangy goat cheese. The intensely rich vegetables were terrific--especially with a goat-cheese-frosted piece of herb roll--but the eggplant was undercooked, tough and tasteless.

An order of decadent lobster-filled ravioli ($10.95) in a light, lemony beurre blanc provoked mixed reactions. The luxurious filling was wonderful, and the pretty round ravioli looked nice. But the pasta itself was two notches away from al dente--in other words, pasty.

With roasted poultry, Il Fornaio has few peers. The special of chicken breast ($13.95)--sautéed crispy and splashed with a topping of black olives, sun-dried tomatoes, sweet peppers, garlic and white wine--was radiant, both in soft/crisp texture contrast and in brilliance of flavors. It was served with rosemary-perfumed roast potatoes and an addictive melange of yellow, red and orange peppers. Another meal of roast Petaluma duck ($13.95) offered crisp skin and moist meat--everything duck should be--and it came with more of the terrific vegetables this restaurant seems to produce effortlessly.

The hit of recent dishes sampled was an earthy extravaganza of conegliano ($8.95): shell pasta smothered in an herby sauce of tomatoes and soft cubes of eggplant. The entire creation--which arrived in a shallow metal baking dish--had been topped with a variety of cheeses and herbs and then baked so that the cheeses melted into the pasta. Big and comforting, this was destination pasta at its finest.

Along with perfect espressos ($1.50), we enjoyed a dessert of a cream-filled cake--shaped like a snowball--studded with nuts, chunks of milk chocolate and orange liqueur, surrounded by an orange cream sauce ($4.50). Very European in its juxtaposition of not-too-sweet cream, chocolate and citrus--very Il Fornaio in its flair.

While in general the confidence and quality of food presentation here has maintained its high mark, I experienced inconsistent service on two occasions--overly casual in one case, inexcusably inattentive on another. Unless you're dining out with a group of tall men in suits, you might be in for some, shall we say, casual inattention on the part of wait staff. All patrons, in suits or otherwise, deserve to be treated with consideration.

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Il Fornaio

Address: 302 S. Market St., San Jose
Phone: 408/271-3366
Cuisine: Contemporary Italian
Ambiance: Urban grill
Entrees: $8.95-$18
Hours: Mon.-Thu., 7-10:30am and 11:30am- 11pm; Fri., 7-10:30am and 11:30am-midnight; Sat., 8am-midnight; Sun., 8am-11pm



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