The engine of the hospitality industry is powered by the youthful energy of its workforce, guided by the wisdom of the veterans, who call the shots and funnel talent into position.
In the restaurant world, those who’ve served back-of-house as well as in the front—and everywhere in between—have the privilege and responsibility of selecting younger employees to elevate.
At the Lexington House there’s just such a young man who was given the chance to make good on his dreams. But first, he had to overcome his fears.
Ethan Carreon was barely 18 in 2020 when he began working at the Los Gatos restaurant affectionately as “the Lex.” Located on North Santa Cruz Avenue, the lounge is celebrating its 11th year in operation.
“When I started cooking, I was scared,” Carreon admits. “I still get scared, but I think fear is best utilized as a tool to push yourself to the limit.”
General Manager and co-owner Stephen Shelton says he first connected with Carreon through an email inquiring about work during the summer of 2021. “When Ethan first staged with Chef Glenn Baldemor [formerly of Rustic Canyon and Tallula’s in Santa Monica], there was some doubt for sure,” Shelton admits. “There was a shortage of cooks, so taking ‘anything with a pulse’ was not in question. With only sandwich shop experience to his name, Carreon was an unlikely candidate for culinary excellence.”
Yet, Shelton says, under Chef Baldemor’s tutelage Ethan moved from garde manger to lead line cook, to now heading up the Lexington House’s culinary program as the chef, all while demonstrating an inspiring blend of passion and innovation.
“Stephen saw potential where others saw inexperience,” says Carreon, who is also fascinated by photography and was considering a career in graphic arts before donning an apron. “Stephen’s belief in my abilities and guidance have been instrumental to my growth and the unique culinary philosophy of ‘letting it rip,’ and the ‘less is more’ mentality we embrace at the Lexington House.”
Carreon focuses on no more than three or four ingredients per dish, using prime produce from various farmers markets, at which he and his team shop several times weekly. Among the current menu items reflective of this philosophy are a chicken liver mousse with blackberry jam and pickled cipollini onion, served with toasted levain; local yellowfin ceviche on blue corn tostada with Thai chile mayo, herbs and flowers; Fogline Farm chicken with romesco, green lentils, mustard greens and sofrito; and assorted summer beans with olive oil chile crisp, puffed grains, seeds and nuts.
“We are blessed to have some of the best farms growing organic and sustainable products around,” Shelton says. “Ethan is working hard to develop relationships with the farmers to gain access to the best of the best produce.”
Putting it together in a creative way is what makes a chef different from a cook who follows recipes. Shelton admits Carreon is a special dude: “I know when I was his age, I didn’t have a mentor. It’s why many of my staff are young. It’s my way of giving them purpose and a community. We all take care of each other. I know it sounds corny, but it’s true.”
Carreon knows that he’s been given the keys to the kitchen at an early age, and is fully aware of the responsibility. “I’ve had my ups and downs since starting cooking, much like everyone else,” he says. “But fully embracing my love and intimidation of the culinary trade has since brought me closer to where I want to be.”
A veteran of the culinary industry, Shelton has certainly put in his time. He worked as a bartender at Waterbar and The Table, and was bar manager at Cin-Cin, before opening The Lexington House in 2013, and starting up Black Sheep Brasserie in Willow Glen. Both operations were created in partnership with Don Durante. The latter was sold in June to the owner of Stacks restaurants.
It’s not an easy business, and it takes a certain personality to thrive.
Says Shelton, “I really try to instill in my team that the hospitality industry is a noble career, not just an ‘interim’ job.”
Thus far, Carreon has taken this to heart. “Stephen has encouraged me to trust in myself and push every day in work and in life,” he says. “He has given me mentorship and a space to develop and grow my philosophy of food.”
Lexington House, 40 N Santa Cruz Ave, Los Gatos; 408.354.1600. Open Tue–Thu 4:30-9pm; Fri–Sat 4:30–9:30pm. Social hour Tue–Thu 4:30–6pm. Visit thelexlg.com or call 408.354.1600.
